Coach yards, cobbled lanes, a stunning view & tales of the Devil are all to be found in Kirkby Lonsdale, on the fringes of the Yorkshire Dales National Park (since the extension). It's an attractive market town, very well-kept thanks to some very green-fingered residents and full of 17th and 18th century buildings.
Both Turner and Ruskin declared the panoramic view over the River Lune towards the 14th century Devil's Bridge to be one of the loveliest in the country: it's now known as 'Ruskin's View'. The steep steps from Church Brow are called the Radical Steps, built by Dr. Francis Pearson in the 1820s.
Dr. Francis Pearson was apparently known for his strong political views, and courted local controversy when he diverted a public footpath that originally ran through his garden, hence the name of the his steps.
I really like Kirkby Lonsdale because it's got such a great collection of independent shops, good pubs and restaurants, but particularly for its many interesting corners with odd names and unexpected architectural features.
Nowadays a 'gazebo' is a flimsy half tent hastily erected in case of rain during an event. The Kirkby Lonsdale version of a gazebo in St. Mary's churchyard is a two storey stone-built octagonal affair, standing proud over the meadow.
Streets still have no-nonsense names, depicting the activities that used to take place. It's pretty clear what happened in Swine Market. You can still spot the old market cross, and little weigh-house with the outline of the weighing platform.
Salt Pie Lane is fairly clear too: those pies must have been quite special to have a road named after them. Jingling Lane is less obvious: I think it's from the sound made by small bells or coins being rubbed together but maybe some one will correct me?
Part of the reason Kirkby Lonsdale has so many fine inns and places to eat and drink is because of its location as an important river crossing, on drover and packhorse routes. At one time there were numerous mills in the town, carding wool, making snuff, bobbins and cloth as well as grinding corn.
The attractive Devil's Bridge dates back to medieval times, with a curious story to add to its fame.nAn old woman lived on the riverbank with her small collection of animals. One night one of her cows wandered across to the other side of the river and wouldn't return.
The devil appeared and said he'd build a bridge in exchange for the soul of the first body to cross it. She agreed, and the devil built the bridge, leaving his own hand-mark in the stone, which can still be seen today.
As soon as the bridge was built, the woman met the devil, pretending to be interested in seeing who was the first to cross. She threw food across the river and a small dog ran to get it, meaning the devil felt cheated, became enraged and disappeared in a cloud of his own making.
Last week Kirkby Lonsdale suffered a fire which killed a local man. For a while some of the town was cordoned off but it's now more accessible and at this time of year, the businesses would really appreciate your visit. If you can't visit, perhaps you can share this post to support this beautiful market town?